Novi Sad is a medium-sized town in northern Serbia. The Danube runs through it. It has nice squares and churches and pedestrian-ized streets full of cafes and bars and European department stores. It has an old fortress, part of which has been turned into art galleries. One of the gallery guys spoke some English and told me about his daughter who lives in Rome and has had shows in New York. He has a cat named Felix and made me drink some rakija (somewhere between moonshine and brandy).
Novi Sad also has more fascist graffiti than I think I've ever seen anywhere. A big plus sign, with C's (C is Cyrillic for S) in each quadrant but the C's on the left side are backwards, is some kind of nationalist, Serbia-for-Serbs-type symbol. It looks like this and is on a lot of walls and buildings. On the Catholic church in Novi Sad, they added some extra lines to the plus sign to make a swastika around the C's. Joder.
The Serbs that I've met on this trip so far are warm and kind and super generous. But whatever small minority goes around painting swastikas scares the crap out of me.
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